Foreign Perspectives

Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category

If nothing else, creating the blog version of this little newsletter has upped the number of readers somewhat. We had a couple of hundred folk looking at it in the couple of days after I put it on.

We had an English couple with us all week as part of a mini-package with breakfast, lunch, evening meals and transfers just about every day which is certainly a lot more profitable than people just staying the night but definitely creates a whole lot more work. The days just disappeared on us and we hardly got anything done.

As a result of them, it took us three goes to make it to a meeting with the bank manager. Still, at least he’s now got a chunk of stuff that needs doing for us. We still can’t accept Amex or Diners Club (“deeners cloob” here) as the applications haven’t been processed yet which isn’t really surprising as banks here are incredibly slow. They’re also about 30 years behind the times in most respects. As a small example of this, Credit Agricole updated their computer system a few months ago and just decided to start charging all their customers EUR 5 per month just for having an account simply because the new computer system would let them do that. That’s in addition to the EUR 40 that they already charged for a debit card on the accounts. So now we’ve to pay EUR 100 just to have an ordinary account. Another example of backwardness is that they’ve just started to issue credit cards (yes, really: 30 years after the rest of the world!). Naturally, they come with a charge (EUR 30 or so), penal interest (17% which is pretty high considering that Eurozone rates are somewhat lower than the UK) and a MAXIMUM limit of EUR 8000 (about £5000) which is lower than the minimum limits on some UK cards: I don’t think he believed me when I said that some UK cards have maximums up to £50,000 on ordinary cards (and those kind of limits are definitely achieveable too whereas the EUR 8000 max of Credit Agricole is rather difficult to achieve). Oh, and the “overdraft limit” is only applicable during the month ie you need to clear your overdraft each month so it’s really just to cover bills arriving before your salary.

We’re intending to update two rooms each year so that we don’t end up having to replace the stuff in all the rooms in a few years time (ie we’ll update the whole hotel every five years or so). Normally we’d have done that in the new year but the big end of year booking is forcing us to bring that forward a few months so we were off bedroom shopping during the week. Anyway, first to get the refresh is our proposed “honeymoon suite” which will have a really nice set of furniture before Christmas and we’re also replacing one knackered bed in a room which we’ve yet to use but expect to be using regularly next year as it’ll be our only non-ensuite room when we create the little suite by adding a connecting door between the other non-ensuite room and one of our double rooms. We weren’t even going to bother offering the non-ensuite rooms but they’re very popular with the people booking through the Ryanair/FlyBE system.

Nothing doing with the vaccinations. We went along to the clinic but they decided that both James & John were running a temperature and therefore couldn’t be given the vaccines so it’s back in early December to try again. The reason that they were pretty warm (as were me & Wendy) is that it was 29C that day. They don’t allow for people not being used to the high temperatures here. When John was born they insisted on putting three layers of clothes on him (including one rug type effort) plus blankets on top. I’m sure you’ve heard that babies can’t sweat. Normally that’s true but they put so much on him that the sweat was dripping off him!

We’ve one of those google alerts set up to keep an eye on the bridge developments so we can see that it’s being quite widely reported in the UK. I think the folk in Millau are incredibly optimistic when they think that people will come to their town to see the bridge. A fantastic feat of engineering, maybe. Worth a special trip to see, no. At the very least they’re going to see a heap of their shops closing over the next few years.

It’s a public holiday here tomorrow (Monday) so we’re intending to head off to Spain for the day to stock up on a few things. The English family ate their way through a lot of beans on toast. You might think that’s a cheap meal. Not here: beans are really expensive. So, we’re going to try and get a box of tins of beans in Spain (they aren’t quite at UK prices but are definitely a lot cheaper than in France). Also, Wendy has fallen in love with “sillic bang” which cleans up chrome like new and has made quite an improvement in the appearance of our bathroom fittings.

Our washing machine is on it’s last legs so we thought we’d get ourselves a new one before it keels over altogether so it was off to Darty. Thought we’d get a make that we’d heard of as supposedly it would be more reliable but seeing as the cheapest one I’d heard of was EUR 439 and the cheapest cheapo make was EUR 199 we figured, “hey, so what if it breaks down after the two year guarantee; we’ll just buy another one”. Anyway, el cheapo washing machine should be turning up sometime tomorrow. And even better, I got to use my brand new Amex card! Yes, we have now found two shops that take it. Not exactly the most useful card to have in France although it does look very pretty.

Seeing as it looks reasonably likely that the assorted Inland Revenue offices will consider me as a Crown Servant I figured that we’d best get the tax credit & child benefit claims in for John in case there’s some limit to the backdating of payments. It sounded a good enough argument to the child tax guy who was all set to pay us the tax credit but our record is currently locked (those guys gotta get a new computer system!) so that’s certainly sounding promising. Child benefit are debating the issue as supposedly you need to pay national insurance in the UK to get it but, assuming that the main tax office accept the Crown Servant status, that’s where I’d be paying it so I guess it’s a matter of waiting for their decision. Snag is that the French tax year ends in December so I need them to decide pretty soon. The biggest plus point would be that I could ditch our **** French accountant, all being well I’ll be looking for a UK accountant very shortly.

Also thought it was time to regularise Wendy a bit so it was off to the work permit place (for reasons which are even more complicated than I could possibly describe here). Anyway, after a very long chat there which which brilliant for my French, we now have to go to the Mairie to see about getting the residence permit which should have been here a month or two ago.

Oh, nationality again… the Paris guy reckoned, no, John wasn’t British because the new nationality legislation of 2002 still isn’t in force yet (despite it having gone through parliament over two years ago!). However, as I queried a few things he dug himself into a hole and now has to consult HQ. To summarise the state of affairs: as the old nationality legislation is still in force, I can’t pass my nationality on to John (they define “father” as “husband”). However, children born to Crown Servants (a rather significant status) are treated as though they were born in the UK. Were he born in the UK, Wendy could actually give him British nationality as she has a residence permit which is automatically renewable (next month in fact) ie she can live in the UK “without limitation” which means that in Belfast we could get a passport, so adding that to the Crown Servant status means that…. our man in Paris can’t answer the nationality question but he now realises that he’s given me enough rope to hang him! So, it’s possible that we could just apply for a UK passport for him in Paris (or indeed in Belfast when I’m over). Laughably, we can now get James a British passport so perhaps we’ll manage a consistent set some of these days (we’ve been pulled up twice in the airports already as it looks very suspicious to have a British guy and an Australian girl taking an Irish child abroad).

We’re now up to five separate groups of people who’ve stayed here since July and are buying houses. Latest arrival is a couple from Bristol who are off househunting as I write this. We haven’t actually noticed the prices going up and you can still get quite a reasonable place in the next village for about EUR 50,000. However, we did notice a similar property to ours (though about half the size) on sale for EUR 900,000 last week which is getting on for twice what we paid and seeing as our place is more than twice (possibly as much as triple) the size of it, I guess ours is worth more like EUR 1,500,000. Hmmm, almost enough to sell up & retire. Seriously though, if there were a way of getting the place valued over here, we’d be quite keen on having that valuation to take along to the bank.

I guess now and again it comes across that it’s a complete nightmare living here with all the bureaucratic nonsense that they get up to sometimes and the last week or two has certainly been one of those times when it’s end to end bureaucratic dead-ends. But then we sit back and think: hey, it’s September, it’s 30 in the shade, we’ve a really serious suntan, we own a hotel (that definitely falls in the category of phrases I never expected to be uttering, in spite of the odd joke after Roger bought the restaurant), and whilst we may have the French bureaucracy to deal with now and again, we’ve none of the daily hassles of working for anyone else. And aside from anything else, running a hotel is dead on: the guests are only here in the morning and evening so we’ve pretty much the whole day to ourselves.

Almost forgot, it looks like Mark C has relinquished his title of the “tightest tourist” (jointly held with Norman H and my Mum) and will be venturing over next year. Although, I’m sure he’ll be pushing for discounts when he gets here… He’ll also be making his second TV appearance, in France this time (naturally all costs being met by someone else!).

Arnold

Everyone’s seen the Bastille Day parade in Paris but you can say that you’ve seen the Estagel parade.

Yes, folks, that is the entire parade from the guy at the front with the wreath, the mayor with his little sash and the military might of Estagel (both policemen and the fire engines in the background).

Bonsoir encore:

I’ve missed the 12th but it’s the 14th today so Estagel will be coming alive with parades, riots, etc. shortly. Well, a parade and more than likely everyone will be too pissed to riot as there’s free plonk once the parade is over.

Had our first bunch of total **** arrive last week. Got a call from England early in the week to reserve rooms for two families who were driving down to a villa in Spain for a couple of weeks. We’re around the half-way mark between Calais and Alicante so we’ve had a few similar groups before. Anyway, these **** booked rooms, evening meals and breakfasts for eight: with such relatively large numbers, you need to buy a fair bit extra of the fresh food, of course. They were stopping off around Tours which is something like seven hours non-stop drive to here and, as they were intending to set off around 0830, we figured that it would be at least 7pm before they turned up: well, you’ve gotta have some rest stops, don’t you? Not these ****. Nope, they turned up around 5pm (ie pretty knackered due to no stopping). They left again at 5.20. The **** had decided that they may as well drive on to Alicante so our bin had a big heap of stuff added to it right away.

Anyway, net effect is that we decided that it’s time we started taking deposits from people so there’s now a little button on the website to let folk pay me money as of yesterday on the english page. Haven’t worked out how to do it in French yet.

Actually, they are the only English folk that we’ve had stopping (OK, only for 20 mins). Our marketing is bound to be better in English than it is in French, yet something like 2/3rds of the people staying so far have been French (sadly, they’ve only spent about 1/2 of the total money: have to see about increasing their expenditure).

Techie question time again: Remember the ADSL wireless connection? Well, it turns out that there were three problems with it. For a start, it’s pretty hot here and the gear was running somewhat higher than the recommended operating temperature: adding a fan has cooled everything down nicely. Second, the wireless link was hanging after an hour or so: applying the Netgear patch has sorted that one. However, it now has a peculiar problem: it tries to dial all the time but only connects when I leave the normal phone off the hook (just discovered that last night). This seems to be 100% consistent. Is there anything I can do, or is it a problem for France Telecom?

We’ve sort of settled into a routine now: early morning, get breakfast stuff; mid-morning work on the French degree; 11-ish to 1.30-ish have lunch; afternoons: alternate between admin/tidying up and battling with French bureaucracy.

In the evenings we were hoping to be flogging meals to the locals but money’s a bit thin on the ground ’til after the harvest in September so we’re in the process of attempting to widen out our definition of “local” which hopefully will bear fruit in due course.

On the French bureaucracy front, we finally managed to acquire our “KBIS” (ie business registration number) a few weeks ago. For some reason, which totally escapes me, the accountant reckoned that there was no great rush on that as it was “in the works”: so, even though I’d specifically asked for him to get it way back in February, he didn’t get off his bum ’til late April and toward the end of May we received said document (which he said in February only took 3 days to get) with a start date for the business of May 1st (which will probably cause problems in due course). Over here, you basically can’t do anything without it. To give you an idea of the implications some things that you can’t do are: have a business account (so I couldn’t cash cheques made out to Mas Camps); accept credit cards (nearly had to turn away a couple of people over that); get a social security number (can’t claim Wendy’s medical bills without that); get a card for the local cash & carry (nearly ran out of several items for the hotel over that one)… the list is endless. As I say, it escapes me why he thought there was no rush on it.

Oh, and one other “small” item: you can’t have a business phone line. Thanks to the wonders of the timing of French bureaucracy, now that I have the KBIS and have paid the two months overdue bill (of course, without the KBIS they wouldn’t take the money from me), they have cut me off for not paying it. Which is why it’ll be a while before this reaches you (I’m guessing at minimum a week but it could be more).

He’s also of the opinion that I don’t need the TVA number (Value Added Tax number) ’til the end of the year. This one isn’t quite so serious though it has cost me several hundred pounds so far as it means that I can’t claim any UK VAT that I pay (which mounts up quite quickly when you count the computer I’m typing this on, a load of pillows and stuff arriving late June, all the UK adverts plus a bunch of other stuff we’ve bought in Spain).

Needless to say, we’ve been actively looking for a new accountant for the last month or so.

I can see why Roger’s friend said that people have gone bust waiting for French bureaucracy!!

We’ve now had three folk applying for a job here. However, I’ve looked at some of the bureaucratic loops that need to be gone though to employ someone here and I figure that it ain’t worth the hassle unless you’re employing at least 2 or 3 (which we couldn’t justify just yet). Also had a painter call while I was out: Wendy said that he went completely round the building and had a job getting rid of him; got a call later that evening to say he’d be prepared to do it for FF50,000 (they still count in francs here) ie about £5,000 which is a whole lot of money for painting (well, it’s a whole lot of building too I suppose).

The website is coming along nicely and the regional guide page seems to feature quite highly in the Pyrenees Orientale tourism searches, in both the French & English versions. I’m currently concentrating on that as the hotel gets quite a few hits via the regional guide. Also have to see about developing the sales side: so far only one flight booked, and a couple of books & a DVD sold but that’s not too bad seeing as I didn’t really do much in that line with the site. As you know, we recently came across a little brochure on the early history (ie Roman & Templar eras) of Mas Camps so I added the first version of that onto the site the other day and I’ve added a bit of that to the main hotel page too. The general aim is do an update of the main pages every two or three weeks but in practice it’s been nearly every week for the regional page since we got here as I’ve been adding photos of the local attractions and souping up the descriptions of them (which, in turn, is upping the number of hits). Laughably, thanks to John’s assistance, I now feature as the top site when you look for “pyrenees motorbike tours” (though, so far, we’ve not had any “greasy bikers” staying)! Actually, with that spurring me on, I’m hoping to target more directly wine enthousiasts, walkers/ramblers and cyclists so if any of you have suggestions of what kind of things I’d need to write in those areas, let me know. And, no Brian, I’ve not forgotten about the golf courses: just haven’t been around the areas where they would likely to be recently.

Anyway, tasks for the rest of this week are to erect the next couple of signs, hopefully Thursday and Friday evening (it’s way too hot now to do serious work before about 7pm here: I managed to put myself out of commission with a touch of heatstroke for the last couple of days trying to), see about getting James a Carnet de Santé (health book), acquire a social security number (which is required by quite a backlog of forms that I’ve built up) and, of course, see if we can’t do something about the phone.

We’re hoping to place our first advert for the restaurant in the local paper within the next week or so which at least only needs to be in French. It’s getting to be something of a nuisance to have to write everything in both french & english: the website in particular is quite a chunk of paper if you print it out and it all needs written twice.

We were up at the mairie again on Thursday (we seem to be going there every week or two for something or other). They’ve not heard anything about Wendy’s european residence permit: we suspect that, as was the case in NI, it’s very rare (she had the only one issued in NI as far as we can tell). Our big bins are still on order (we’re running with household size wheelie bins at the moment which fill up surprisingly quickly when we’ve restaurant customers). From before the time of the previous owner we’ve been in the Fenouilledes area accomodation list but we should be appearing under the restaurant heading as well soon. Snag is, that the Fenouilledes area is in the wrong direction: by the time people get to their touristy sights, they’ve already passed us by and ideally we’d like to be in the Agly tourist area list instead (ideally, in both, of course). We had one go with the Agly people a few weeks back but have since discovered that their “welcome to Agly” sign is on our land so we’ll be returning to them in due course to have them either remove the sign or add us to their lists.

The ADSL modem has turned up but, of course, it won’t work without the phone line working so that’ll be a while. When we do get it going it will be a major, major speed improvement. At best I can get 30k here and most of the time it’s more like 12k (I even got down as low as 9k once) which is seriously slow: even retrieving the email takes ages and you can’t really open more than one window at a time (downloads are a total nonrunner).

Techies: does anyone know how I can use a GPRS mobile with infrared as my “modem” for surfing etc.? It’s coming up “no dial tone” when I connect to it via the infrared and try to use it as an ordinary modem. It’s using a French Orange Mobicarte (pay as you go) but I bought the phone separately, so perhaps I need to set something up on the GPRS end? (everything else seems fine though)